Saturday, September 16, 2006

Lithuania (click here for the video)


This challenge seemed to present many opportunities. Could it be some mysterious place, part of Lithuanian folklore? Or is it some rare spice found only in the ancient forests? Or some nectar like drink reserved for visiting heads of state? No. Zappa as I discovered through google was a pschedelic rocker from the USA, and was fairly big in 60s and 70s.

Local photographer, Saulius Paukstys was so devastated by his death that he petitioned local authorities to install a bust of the deceased musician. In his own words "Okay, so Zappa never visited Lithuania and had absolutely no connection with the country, but as far as I was concerned, this was a test of our new-found freedom. Lithuania had just proclaimed itself to be a democratic country. I wanted to test it and see if I would be able to realize my ideas." 70-year-old local sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas created the bust, which now stands in a carpark near the outskirts of town, don't blink or you'll miss it.

Latvia - (click here for the video)

I don't have a contact in Latvia, so this one could well be very tricky, I've really no idea about how to approach this one, so let's just see what happens. By chance, on my first night I run into a Canadian guy I had met in Estonia, and he tells me that there's a ballet school opposite the hostel he's staying in, things are looking up. So the next day he comes to meet me and shows me where it is, this could be a perfect place to meet just the right contact.

It appears the school leases a room in the building, so I ask the lady at the reception to the building if it's possible to go up and visit the ballet school. Unfortunately she doesn't understand a word I'm saying, so a little mime is needed to explain where I want to go. She looks at me and says "Ah, ballet" which I'm pretty sure is exactly what I said. She writes some figures on a piece of paper and hands it to me with a satisfied look on her face. I can only assume they are times of the classes, so I decide to return at the next time written on the paper.

Next stop is the National Theatre, the venue in which I am supposed to hold my performance. At the moment they are showing a play so I'm a little disheartened, as it's unlikely there are any dancers around. I step inside and ask the ticket office about the possibility of me performing a ballet. Her expressions changes from dead-pan to horror, confusion and then derision, not a good sign!

Her English is basic, and my Latvian is none existent, so we reach an impasse which she breaks by asking "you want ticket for show?" I decide a different tact is needed, back to the ballet school. I arrive a one of the three times the lady wrote on the card, and try the door to the class but it's obvious no one's home. Not sure what to do, so I start trying to think of a plan B.

The guy who sent this in gave me a get-out clause in case something like this happens. I can, if I must, perform the ballet outside the theatre. This is something I'm not too keen on as It's on a major road through the city, a bit like Leicester square, not really the place for impromtu ballet performances. Unfortunately as my second visit to the theatre is just as useless as the first I decide that with time constraints this is what I'll have to do.

Apologises to ballet lovers, culture vultures and those easily shocked. But I must try at least to perform a ballet, and with no idea how to do this I decide on an Contempary-Abstract style familiar with people who've drunk a little too much, enjoy. I have mixed the video with footage of a real dancer, can you tell which is real and which is me?

Estonia (click here for the video)














After my (at least I thought) heroics with the Banya and icy lake the thought of a sluething challenge seemed quite appealing to me. I arrived after a relatively short journey of 6hrs in the capitol of Estonia (Tallin) in the international bus station freezing my butt off. I had packed for summer and was wearing shorts and t-shirt and it was now well into Autumn in Northern-Europe.

I thankfully found a taxi quite quickly, which took me to a local hostel, and I climbed into bed to warm-up. My first day, I spent trying to up-date this blog. I had broken my camera in Loas, and was using only my video camera to get stills from, but no computers had the capability to download video so I couldn't use frames off it to use as pictures. After a fun evening with fellow travellers I took to the city in search of my mystery statue, which someone had sent me a picture of and told me to find.

I found a tourist info centre and asked if they knew where this statue might be, hoping they might at least be able to give me some clues to it's location. "Yes, it's just round the corner" they tell me. It couldn't have been easier, and to be honest - I'm not sure if it was a little bit of a cheat me asking them. Well, never mind, I found the statue (although, I did manage to get lost for half an hour, even though they'd given me a map with the statue marked on it) it was 200m from the info centre.

So, not too much to report, except Tallin has a beautiful old city in the centre, and I'm in need of buying some winter clothes, as I'm starting to get stared at in shorts and T-shirts while all the locals are wearing trousers, jackets and scarves. Task completed.

Russia (click here for the video)













This post was extremely long when I wrote it out in my diary, but I decided that this may be a better way of doing it. So, for those of you with a short attention span (myself included) here are the highlights of my Russia trip, and challenge:

Lots of vodka.

Lake Baikal (world's largest body of fresh water, found in the heart of Siberia).

4 day drunken train journey on the Trans-Mongolian (it was my hospitable Mongolian host's fault).

Large Mongolian lady having an extremely bloody fight with young men (and winning).

Lots of vodka.

Crooked customs officials.

Mongolian traders/smugglers selling all their goods at every station we stopped at.

Crazy Russians charging the train to buy all their goods.

Lots of vodka.

Largest and fastest market on wheels.

Lots of vodka.

Moscovite con-men.

Almost dying of heat stroke in a Russian Banya (similar to a sauna); then hyperthermia whilst swimming naked in an icy lake.

Lots of vodka

My favourite country so far, and not just because of the vodka.

Mongolia (click here for the video)


You have 48hrs to learn the ancient singing technique of traditional throat singers, plus enough Mongolian to sing "I'm a little teapot", no sweat!

Throat singers are able to produce several sounds at the same time. A deep bass noise from their diaphram, plus high pitched whistling sounds through their nasal passages all whilst singing. My contact took me to see a concert of all traditional styles of music, singing and dancing. It happened to be the 800th year anniversary of Chengis Khan's empire, who we all know as Ghengis Khan, the most famous warrior of all time.

Chengis is still a National hero and you can see his image everywhere. His face adorns over 20 types of vodka (vodka drinking seems to be a National hobby), lots of cigarette packets, foods and hotels. It seems there has been a bit of a gap, since he, and his Grands sons, in famous Mongolian warriors, or anyone famous for that matter.

After the concert I had the opportunity to meet with the singers, and the throat singer in particular. He didn't seem quite so scary in normal clothes, his singing outfit and hat gave him a remarkable likeness to the face I had seen plastered on vodka bottles ever since I arrived. His Father was a throat singer, and was now teaching this technique at the Ulan Baatoor university. He said when I explained through my translator that I'd better go visit his Father, it takes years to master the technique. He gave me a very sceptical look when I told him that I had 24hrs, and that I also needed to learn Mongolian (he was convinced I was taking the p**s, I think).

My translator explained why I wanted to do it, and he kindly agreed to put on a little show for me. He arranged some musicians, and then belted out some amazing songs, it really is quite beautiful to listen to, amazing control. The more I listened the more I realised my own rendition of "I'm a little teapot" was going to be painful for me and anyone listening.

He tried his best to teach me a few basic sounds, but told me it could take month's of practice to get them in tune, and I certainly believed him. So off I went to find a quiet spot to spend the evening practicing. The video starts of with him singing so you can hear what it should sound like.